It's 7 in New York and on the catwalk Donna Karan is offering up coats. Is it any wonder? This AW11 collection was no doubt inspired by the weather in her home city, snow still piled up in dirty drifts outside the venue and fashion editors shivering in the front row.
But more than that, the AW11 DKNY collection showed a designer at one with her audience: it was sleek and modern, sharp but suitable for purpose, absolutely unstuffy. Apparently inspired by NYC modernists, DKNY was a sexy study of graphic lines and textures - yet from pink and red mohair stripe sweaters to slim rust and navy tweed trousers cropped at the ankle to a black and camel knee-length cape in slim-fit wool, there wasn't a single piece that wouldn't work in real life. The invitation, printed in fluoro capitals, read: SHOW ME SOMETHING NEW YORK. The designer managed that - and then some.