Milan Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2011: Gianfranco Ferre hUYNHTANNGOC
It was pretty much business as usual at Gianfranco Ferre where design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi churned out a collection chock full of the brand's signature clean yet sensuous chromatic daywear and showstopping yet ultra grown up evening gowns. Lightness of both color (palette of opaque hues where white meets beige and flesh pink) and touch (organza, sheer tulle and chiffon ) characterized the collection and the duo cited the architectural lines of Frank Lloyd Wright as a source of inspiration.
As we saw with American minimalist king Calvin Klein, the nuance of the collection lay in the finish of the fabric, where sheen and iridescence added brilliance to the otherwise very streamlined pieces. The luxury with these sorts of lines is found at the level of the fabric, and very much so in the construction. Ferre's lush yet oh-so-light-for-fall fabrics included silver lames, radiant panne velvets, superfine hammered crepes, worsted cashmere and a wool/silk blend so delicate that it assumed the luster of silk duchesse.
Ferre ticked the two-textured outerwear trend box with jackets in the form of comfortable cabans where cashmere was paired with fur, or shearling with stretch leather. In terms of tailoring, dresses were open at the waist and a sort of Celine-esque sensibility Italianized was exuded from the clean cut leather shifts and double breasted coats. Eveningwear was sensually elegant, easy and timeless, as opposed to sexy and of the moment. Intricate mesh hand-beaded and embroidered cream and diamonte detailing adorned close-fitting gowns whilst alternating bands of satin enveloping the body on looser floor sweeping creations enveloped the body whilst still revealing peeks of bare skin.
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