Double Zéro Sept.


Don't let the surprising burst of James Bondian elegance at the beginning fool you. Jean Paul Gaultier's singular vision is as strong as it ever was. After the "cocktails at 8" opening, a flurry of looks, ranging from androgynous to an over the top hirsuteness; sporty to science fiction, all follow in rapid succession. We've always loved him for his playful approach to fashion and he's definitely having fun with the traditional forms of menswear here, when he's not ignoring them completely, that is. Sometimes the silhouette is broad and cartoonishly masculine, action figures with exaggerated necks and shoulders tapering down to thigh-hugging tights. Sometimes it's willowy and effete, tailored jackets with shorts or billowy wide-legged pants. And the skirts ... well ... the skirts are an acquired taste. He goes all over the place with his shapes and ideas and points of inspiration and yet he still maintains a sharp focus and cohesive vision. And he's certainly never boring. Who else would think to show a collection that could serve as the entire wardrobe for a James Bond movie? It's all here, from the spies to the henchmen, to the evil mastermind, right down to the willowy blond Bond girls.






[Photo Credit: getty, wireimage]